Short answer
With eight knots you can handle almost anything on board: the bowline for a fixed loop, the figure-eight knot as a stopper, the round turn and two half hitches and the bollard hitch for mooring, the reef knot for reefing, the sheet bend for joining lines, the slipped knot when it needs to release quickly, and the cleat hitch on a cleat. Practise at home until you can tie them blindfolded.
Overview
| Knot | Used for | Easy to untie after loading? |
|---|---|---|
| Bowline | Loop in a mooring line, lifeline | Yes |
| Figure-eight knot | Stopper at the end of a sheet | Yes |
| Two half hitches | Fenders, rings, posts | Fairly |
| Reef knot | Reef points, bags | Yes, but not for loads |
| Sheet bend | Joining two lines, even of different thickness | Yes |
| Round turn and two half hitches | Mooring around a post or bollard | Yes |
| Slipped hitch | Temporary fastening | One tug |
| Cleat hitch | Line on a cleat | Yes |
Step by step
- Bowline: make a small loop with the standing part on top. Pass the end up through the loop, around behind the standing part and back down through the loop. Tighten by pulling the end and the standing part together.
- Figure-eight knot: make a bight, take the end around the standing part and pass it down through the bight so the knot looks like an eight.
- Two half hitches: take the line around the object and make two half hitches around the standing part in the same direction.
- Reef knot: right over left and under, then left over right and under. The ends should lie parallel.
- Sheet bend: make a bight in the thicker line. Pass the thinner line up through the bight, around both parts and under itself. Take an extra turn for slippery lines.
- Round turn and two half hitches: two turns around the post take the load; finish with two half hitches around the standing part.
- Slipped hitch: like a half hitch, but finish with a bight instead of the end. Pull the end and the knot releases.
- Cleat hitch: one turn around the base of the cleat, then figure eights over the horns, finishing with a locking hitch.
Lines and mooring in practice
A knot is never stronger than the line. Choose mooring lines with good stretch, such as braided or three-strand polyester, and avoid stiff lines in harbours with swell. The rule of thumb is a thicker line the heavier the boat, but follow the line or boat manufacturer's recommendation.
- Extending: the safest way to join two lines is a double sheet bend or two interlocking bowlines.
- Fenders: a clove hitch around the rail, or a slipped hitch if they're moved often.
- Anchor line: tie a bowline to a shackle or use a spliced eye.
- Sheet end: a figure-eight knot stops the sheet from running out through the block.
The best way to learn is to keep a length of line by the sofa over the winter. Tie each knot ten times, then with your eyes closed. If you can tie a bowline around your own waist with one hand, you'll manage it in an emergency too.
Tips
- Leave a tail of at least a hand's width after the knot.
- Synthetic lines slip. Check the knot after it has been loaded.
- Replace worn mooring lines, and use snubbers in harbours exposed to wash.
More safety tips in the guide to safety equipment on board.
Frequently asked questions
Which knot is the most important to know?
The bowline. It gives a loop that doesn't slip, holds a heavy load and can be untied afterwards.
Why not use a reef knot to join lines?
It can slip undone under load, especially with lines of different thickness. Use a sheet bend instead.
How do I moor to a ring?
A round turn and two half hitches works well, as does a mooring hitch. A bowline also works.