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Guide

Winterising the outboard step by step

Flush, stabilise the fuel, change the oil and store the engine upright. How to get your outboard through the winter.

Three winter risks

  • Frost: water left in cooling passages and hoses can freeze and burst them.
  • Corrosion: salt and moisture attack the metal from the inside.
  • Stale fuel: petrol breaks down and leaves deposits in the carburettor and fuel lines.

1. Flush with fresh water

After the last trip of the season, flush the engine with fresh water. This applies whether it has run in salt, brackish or fresh water. Fit flushing muffs or lower the engine into a flushing tank and let it run. The cooling water stream should be strong and steady.

While it's running, take the chance to listen for odd noises.

2. The fuel

  • Add fuel stabilizer and run the engine so the stabilized fuel reaches the carburetor or injection system.
  • Alkylate petrol keeps better than regular petrol, but it also benefits from stabilizer during long storage.
  • Some manufacturers instead say the carburetor should be run dry. Always follow the engine manufacturer's owner's manual.

3. Oil and lubrication

  • Four-strokes: change the engine oil and filter before winter so the contaminated oil doesn't sit in the engine.
  • Change the gear oil. Milky oil means water in the gearcase.
  • Lubricate according to the lubrication schedule and spray fogging oil into the cylinders if the manual says so.

4. Store upright and look after the battery

Stand the outboard upright as it sits on the boat, with the leg pointing down. That way the water drains out of the cooling passages and does not sit where it can freeze. If you lay it on the wrong side, oil can run where it shouldn't.

If you take the engine home, a sturdy engine stand in a frost-free store is best.

Charge the battery fully and keep an eye on the charge over the winter, as the battery manufacturer specifies.

Checklist to tick off

  • Flushed with fresh water and the cooling water tell-tale checked.
  • Stabiliser in the tank, or carburettor drained according to the manual.
  • Engine oil and filter changed (four-stroke).
  • Gearcase oil changed and checked for water.
  • Greased according to the lubrication schedule.
  • Propeller removed, shaft checked for fishing line and greased.
  • Stored upright, frost-free and dry.
  • Battery charged and disconnected.
  • Note on the engine of what has been done.

Old two-stroke?

An older two-stroke with a carburettor releases 20 to 30 % of its fuel unburnt into the water. You can hand it in for scrapping free of charge. If you are thinking of replacing it, ask for quotes both on a new engine and on servicing the old one.

Frequently asked questions

Should an outboard be stored upright or lying down?

Upright in the normal running position with the drive down, so the water drains from the cooling passages.

Do I have to flush the engine if I've run it in fresh water?

Yes, it's recommended. Even fresh water carries sand and particles that should be flushed out before the engine is laid up.

Should I drain the carburetor or add stabilizer?

It varies between manufacturers and models. Follow the manual for your engine.

How often should I check the battery in winter?

As often as the battery manufacturer specifies. Check the charge now and then during storage.

Sources

  1. Vinterkonservering av din båtmotor, Biltema biltema.se
  2. Båtmotorer och utsläpp, Transportstyrelsen transportstyrelsen.se
  3. Motorvård för båtmotorer, Biltema biltema.se

See also